Place chapter p. 301 Thailand

Bangkok

Gold roofs, brown river, twelve million people being patient with each other.

Bangkok, Thailand

Bangkok rewards the unhurried, which is funny for a city this fast. The trick is to pick one neighbourhood per day and let the rest of the city continue without you.

Stay near the river if you can. It is the oldest street in town and still the best one, and the boats are a transport system disguised as a postcard.

Best time to go November to February, when the air is kind

The short list

Best stay

Mandarin Oriental, river wing

The breakfast terrace is the whole argument.

Best breakfast

On the river, any hotel terrace

Order the rice soup, trust us.

Best dinner

The crab omelette, Phra Nakhon

Queue early or queue long.

Best walk

Talad Noi at golden hour

Shrines, machine shops, street cats with seniority.

Best view

Across the river at dusk

From a ferry, price of a coffee, better than any rooftop.

What to skip

Khao San Road, unless you need to confirm a rumour.

From the journal, in Thailand